The White City - Ostuni

As you’re driving through the countryside near Brindisi in Puglia, the long coastal area of the heel of the “boot”, you will definitely mistake it at first for one of those optical illusions/mirages in the distance created by heat radiating off the landscape.

Turns out you’re approaching the ancient city of Ostuni (from Astuneon, or “New Fortress/Citadel”, in Ancient Greek). Ostuni, like other similar towns in the region, is built entirely of the plentiful local limestone. Unlike the others however, all the buildings in Ostuni are entirely whitewashed in a white limestone-based natural paint, thus the apparition effect.

Low light in the narrow medieval alleyways? A non-issue even at night, the white paint magnifies any available light. Scorching 120F heat in the summer? The white walls and roofs radiate much of the heat back out. That nasty plague that hit the area in the 17th century? Not Ostuni, thanks to the limestone paint’s pest-repellent properties.

You’ll also see amazing limestone bas-relief work, particularly on the many Baroque churches and patrician palaces. This plus its incredible food and the fact that it’s only 5 miles from some of the most pristine Mediterranean coast there is (note coming soon) and Ostuni is a “mirage” that would be too foolish to pass up on your next southern trek.



Ostuni’s Coast, Puglia

So how do miles of untouched coast, ancient olive groves right up against the sea, and hardly a person around sound? This is the northernmost part of the Salento area, on the Adriatic coast, between Bari and Brindisi. While the city of Ostuni is only about 5 miles away, head either north or south once you reach the shore and soon you’ll be completely on your own. Pick one of the many coves for yourself and enjoy it for the day.

The entire coast is dotted with old Torri (watchtowers), such as Torre Egnazia, Torre Canne, Torre San Leonardo, Torre Santa Sabina, and others, all built as a defense system against attacks from the sea. While they have become lovely small beach towns, it is the untouched space in between that is truly breathtaking.

If you’re feeling adventurous, buy a pair of rubber sandals locally to get in and out of the water easily, you’ll know which ones when you see them . . between the towns there are few beaches, just miles of scogli, sea rocks and cliffs made of the ubiquitous local limestone that tumble into the water . . . all to yourself.